The 7 Easy Steps to Changing Your Engine Oil

Changing your own oil not only saves you money, but puts you in charge of your car’s routine maintenance. To get started, just roll up your sleeves, and prepare to get your hands dirty—it's that simple.

1. Warm the Old Oil

2. Elevate Your Vehicle’s Front End and Secure the Wheels

3. Remove the Oil Fill Cap

4. Remove the Oil Filter

5. Drain the Crankcase of the Old Engine Oil

6. Pour In the New Oil

7. Reestablish Proper Oil Pressure

1) Warm the Old Oil.

It’s easier and more efficient to work with oil that is warm (but not dangerously hot). To do this, start the car engine and idle for 5 to10 minutes. If you’ve been using the car, wait about 20 minutes to let the oil cool down.

2) Elevate Your Vehicle’s Front End and Secure the Wheels.

Park on a flat surface and raise the front end of the car by driving onto ramps or by using a floor jack. Set the parking brake and block the back tires with wheel blocks.  Turn the engine off.

3) Remove the Oil Fill Cap.

Under the hood, locate the oil fill cap and remove it. This will help to vent the system, enabling easy oil flow when you open the drain plug underneath the vehicle later. Many vehicles indicate the manufacturer’s recommended oil viscosity on the face of this cap. If it’s not indicated there, consult your owner's manual for that information.

4) Remove the Oil Filter.

Under the engine, locate the oil filter and position an oil drain pan under it. Remove the oil filter. If you can’t loosen your oil filter by hand, you may need a socket wrench, or an oil filter strap wrench to loosen it. Once you’ve removed the oil filter, clean the mount and clear away any remnants of the filter’s gasket from the mount area. Apply a thin film of new engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter and spin the new filter into place. You should only need a ½ to ¾ turn from a standard wrench to tighten the new filter into place.

5) Drain the Crankcase of the Old Engine Oil.

Place the drain pan under the oil drain plug and loosen the plug using your socket wrench or ratchet. Once loosened, unscrew it the rest of the way using your fingers to avoid losing it in the drip pan (it’s actually less messy this way). Let the oil drain into the drain pan until flow is reduced to a slow drip. Replace and tighten the oil drain plug, being careful not to strip it. Usually about a ¼ turn does the trick. Clean up any excess oil with a rag and remember to dispose of your used oil responsibly, in compliance with state and local laws.

6) Pour In the New Oil.

Back up on the top side of your car engine, place your funnel in the oil hole from which you removed the cap and slowly pour in the new oil. Usually your crankcase will accommodate 4 to 5 quarts of engine oil, but be sure to follow your vehicle’s manufacturer’s specs for proper oil amounts and viscosity. Replace the cap and clean up any spills with rags.

7) Reestablish Proper Oil Pressure.

Close the hood and start the engine to reestablish proper oil pressure. After the engine has run for about 5 minutes, check under the vehicle for any leaks from the oil plug or filter. If they leak, stop the engine and adjust them as needed. If there are no leaks, carefully lower your vehicle.

How often should you change your oil?

Every 3,000 miles used to be the standard, but many manufacturers now recommend longer distances between changes. Consult the owner’s manual for oil change frequency recommendations concerning your specific vehicle.

How long does an oil change take?

The first few may take a little longer, but once you get this down, it should take about 20-30 minutes.

How much does an oil change cost?

Prices in professional shops vary regionally but you can expect to pay as much as $50 in some areas, to as little as $20 for the cheapest oil change. The average is somewhere in the middle, of course.

Aside from the basic essentials, are there any other supplies that can make it even easier?

Other items that you may want to consider include:

• Mechanic’s Creeper—Basically a low-slung board on wheels that you lie on to easily roll yourself under the vehicle and maneuver. 
• Mechanics Gloves for cleaner hands and better grips.
• Safety Glasses—because it makes sense to protect your eyes any time you work around engines.
• A Worklight—for better visibility of the parts under your car.

That’s it! All that’s left to do is wash up, using your preferred hand soap (or you may want to leave a trace of that grime on your hands as a badge of your DIY prowess!). Find all you need for vehicle maintenance at Zoro.

The product statements contained in this guide are intended for general informational purposes only. Such product statements do not constitute a product recommendation or representation as to the appropriateness, accuracy, completeness, correctness or currentness of the information provided. Information provided in this guide does not replace the use by you of any manufacturer instructions, technical product manual, or other professional resource or adviser available to you. Always read, understand and follow all manufacturer instructions.